You can watch the dollars trickling 
                down at the new farmers' markets
                during the day. Cubans of all varieties 
                browse the plentiful produce and
                pay unregulated prices, but you can
                tell who has access to dollars--
                jineteras, for instance-- by who's
                buying the most meat.
           
           
 
 
 
                The markets have bicycle parking lots,
                complete with an attendant. The 
                gas shortage has everybody riding bikes,
                including the minister of foreign
                affairs. Even in the tropical heat,
                they're more comfortable than the
                crowded city buses (known as camels
                because they have two humps). The
                horrific experience of riding these
                buses has inspired a huge
                government sponsored mural that 
                borrows from Picasso's "Guernica."
                The artist has given Picasso's
                barnyard war scene wheels and
                a crazed Cuban bus driver.