NorthsideWilliamsburg, the location of my next seizure, is a completely different
world from the East Williamsburg of Flushing and Broadway. Polish and a few Russian
immigrants predominate. If you were to walk from one neighborhood to the other,
you could take Graham Avenue, a.k.a. the Avenue of Puerto Rico, a bustling shopping
street festooned with the colorful merchandise of clothing, discount and variety stores, piled onto the crowded sidewalk. In
summer the street has a carnival atmosphere. Storefront hawkers armed with
microphones, ice cream trucks spinning out tinny jingles and the ever-present
salsa music-- escaping from apartment windows, blaring from radios placed on the
sidewalk and booming from the extra bass of passing car stereos-- combine in a
mad din. Once across Grant Street you enter the quieter and older Italian
neighborhood. Avenue of Puerto Rico yields to Via Vespucci and groups of people
dragging young ones in tow, strollers and shopping carts in front, and clutching
parcels and bags to their bodies, become old men enjoying the pleasures of a
stoop and a cheap cigar.
A feature of the neighborhood that makes every walk worthwhile are the
symbolic signs hung out in front of the business establishments-- a coffee
cup at the coffee shop, a hammer outside the hardware store, a bull's head at the
butcher's-- it makes me think of a medieval guild town. Between Grand and
Metropolitan you pass a bar, complete with a massive frosty stein above the
door, where I like to stop in for a drink. At the time of my first seizure,
when I was teaching, my friend Jose and I would go by after putting recruitment
posters up in the Greenpoint projects, before hitting the low-rises further down
Graham Avenue at Ten Eyck Street.
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