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Finally, relief. Morning comes. Everyone wakes up,
rolls out the prayer mats, faces Mecca and does
their thing. The boys laughingly try to teach me
their prayers, which they say in Tomachek, the
Tuareg language. I ape it as they go along. They're
good teachers. The chief comes along and nods
approvingly. Evidently, there's not going to be any
sand bread breakfast, but after the terrors of the
night, it's a relief to focus on something as
mundane as mere hunger.
We push-start the truck again and take off. I
assume we only have a short way to go before
reaching Aguelhok. Maybe an hour? Before long,
though, it becomes apparent we're in trouble. The
truck starts to slip in and out of gear. We lurch
into drive for a few hundred meters, then coast
for a couple hundred more. We bump along very
slowly for a few minutes, and then stop again.
First the chief, then grandpa, get below the truck
and fiddle around with pliers and a screwdriver.
I can't see what they're doing. But I notice that
for what must be about seven in the morning, it's
already frighteningly hot. Finally, after another
push start, we get moving again.
After a few minutes more, we stop. Everyone gets
out. Not to fix the truck, though. To pray. To me,
it seems absurd and stupid. Now we just have to
start the truck all over again.
I notice that I am doing most of the pushing. The
Tuareg are not very strong. I'm not very strong
either, but it turns out I'm stronger than they
are. They look at me admiringly. The chief is proud
of me. He asks me if I want to join them. He says
(I'm not making this up), "You'd make a pretty
good nomad. Y'know, you could marry one of these,"
and he points to one of the huge, veiled, whistling
women, saying something about her "touche." Everyone
laughs. I tell him I'll think it over. I smile for
a while, imagining happy, indigo-veiled domestic
scenes. I'm glad they've accepted me, and wish that
I could take them up on it for a while. A few months
ago, maybe even a few weeks ago, I could've and
would've done it, but I know I'm too tired now. I
feel like I have about four Sanity Playing Cards
left out of a deck that probably wasn't ever full.
We continue, stopping and tinkering and starting
and push-starting and stopping and praying and
starting and stopping and tinkering and starting
again. We only cover a couple miles between stops.
My water runs out, despite rationing. The air keeps
getting hotter and hotter.
Each time there's a push start, I get sweaty and
thirsty, but I don't dare ask the Tuareg for water,
because I haven't seen any. They really seem to be
okay without it. I would feel like a jerk depleting
whatever reserves they might have. We're obviously
in deep shit. The baby starts to cry. Still, the
Tuareg don't seem panicked. They take it all in
stride. I try to hold down my own rising anxiety
level and drop down to about two Sanity Playing Cards.
The intervals between stops grow shorter and shorter.
We seem to be zig-zagging around a lot. I think we
are lost, and I think these guys are a bit loco.
They're definitely not real truck kinda people. For
one thing, they often times have us push-starting the
truck up hill, like maybe they haven't figured
out the whole gravity thing. At one point they hand
me the pliers and the screwdriver and indicate that I
should try to fix whatever's wrong. Well. Okay. Except
I'm not real truck kinda people either..
We sit for a few minutes, stalled. Gramps and Chief
each make a half-hearted attempt to fix the truck
before giving up again. I'm sweating and panicking
like I've never sweated or panicked before, but the
Tuareg are maddeningly calm. I feel like they must
have better things to do than worry about me, so I
don't let on how nervous I am. But I am worried
now. Officially worried. The most worried I have
ever been.
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