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 Finally, relief. Morning comes. Everyone wakes up,  rolls out the prayer mats, faces Mecca and does  their thing. The boys laughingly try to teach me  their prayers, which they say in Tomachek, the  Tuareg language. I ape it as they go along. They're  good teachers. The chief comes along and nods  approvingly. Evidently, there's not going to be any  sand bread breakfast, but after the terrors of the  night, it's a relief to focus on something as  mundane as mere hunger.    We push-start the truck again and take off. I  assume we only have a short way to go before  reaching Aguelhok. Maybe an hour? Before long,  though, it becomes apparent we're in trouble. The  truck starts to slip in and out of gear. We lurch  into drive for a few hundred meters, then coast  for a couple hundred more. We bump along very  slowly for a few minutes, and then stop again.  First the chief, then grandpa, get below the truck  and fiddle around with pliers and a screwdriver.  I can't see what they're doing. But I notice that  for what must be about seven in the morning, it's  already frighteningly hot. Finally, after another  push start, we get moving again.    After a few minutes more, we stop. Everyone gets  out. Not to fix the truck, though. To pray. To me,  it seems absurd and stupid. Now we just have to  start the truck all over again.    I notice that I am doing most of the pushing. The  Tuareg are not very strong. I'm not very strong  either, but it turns out I'm stronger than they  are. They look at me admiringly. The chief is proud  of me. He asks me if I want to join them. He says  (I'm not making this up), "You'd make a pretty  good nomad. Y'know, you could marry one of these,"  and he points to one of the huge, veiled, whistling  women, saying something about her "touche." Everyone  laughs. I tell him I'll think it over. I smile for  a while, imagining happy, indigo-veiled domestic  scenes. I'm glad they've accepted me, and wish that  I could take them up on it for a while. A few months  ago, maybe even a few weeks ago, I could've and  would've done it, but I know I'm too tired now. I  feel like I have about four Sanity Playing Cards  left out of a deck that probably wasn't ever full.    We continue, stopping and tinkering and starting  and push-starting and stopping and praying and  starting and stopping and tinkering and starting  again. We only cover a couple miles between stops.  My water runs out, despite rationing. The air keeps  getting hotter and hotter.    Each time there's a push start, I get sweaty and  thirsty, but I don't dare ask the Tuareg for water,  because I haven't seen any. They really seem to be  okay without it. I would feel like a jerk depleting  whatever reserves they might have. We're obviously  in deep shit. The baby starts to cry. Still, the  Tuareg don't seem panicked. They take it all in  stride. I try to hold down my own rising anxiety  level and drop down to about two Sanity Playing Cards.    The intervals between stops grow shorter and shorter.  We seem to be zig-zagging around a lot. I think we  are lost, and I think these guys are a bit loco.  They're definitely not real truck kinda people. For  one thing, they often times have us push-starting the  truck up hill, like maybe they haven't figured  out the whole gravity thing. At one point they hand  me the pliers and the screwdriver and indicate that I  should try to fix whatever's wrong. Well. Okay. Except  I'm not real truck kinda people either..    We sit for a few minutes, stalled. Gramps and Chief  each make a half-hearted attempt to fix the truck  before giving up again. I'm sweating and panicking  like I've never sweated or panicked before, but the  Tuareg are maddeningly calm. I feel like they must  have better things to do than worry about me, so I  don't let on how nervous I am. But I am worried  now. Officially worried. The most worried I have  ever been. |